The term Guerilla Solar was coined in the United States where pioneers of grid-connected photovoltaics struggled to get permission from their local utilities firms to connect their solar panels to the grid. Being confident that their equipment was safe enthusiasts connected their inverters up to the grid (typically via a standard wall socket) and pumped electricity the "wrong" way without advising or gaining consent from the relevant authorities. Guerilla solar happened because proponents of solar power thought that utilities companies were unnecesarily obstructing the connection of smal PV systems to the grid. Reasons for rejecting applications to connect small scale systems were predominantly safety related though this was generally backed up with faceless beurocracy for stalling and general discouraging of applicants. On the safety front, the possibility that "islanding" might occur whereby a distributed generating system creates a small island of power in an otherwise shut down grid, potentially putting utility company employees at risk when conducting maintenance and this is a valid concern. All grid connect inverters certified for use in Australia these days now have anti-islanding functionality such that the output from the inverter is automatically shut down if the grid steps outside of a pre-set range.
As grid connect technology has become more widespread, more and more people have tread the application path forcing utilities companies to come up with standardised application processes and systems. This is another great step forward and once all the moaning and bellyaching has quieted down - the industry has discovered that distributed generation can work just fine.
So what started as an underground fringe activity has now been normalised through imporvements in technology and improved familiarity with equipment. Given the number of changes that we need to make to our lifestyle to become sustainable I wonder how many other "guerillas" we will need to bring about the changes we need to make to become sustainable? Guerilla solar thermal? Guerilla rainwater harvesting? Guerilla biofuels?
Monday, October 26, 2009
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
New Wheels
We bought a new (used) car the other day. It is a mid-size hatch, has 7 airbags, a proximity key, inbuilt gps & bluetooth and a very advanced drivetrain comprising of both petrol and electric motors. The car is optimised for efficiency and consumes only 4.4L of regular petrol per 100km travelled. That is roughly a third of the fuel you could expect to use in a typical six cylinder car. I've got no doubt that this car represents the future of motoring. There was certainly some resistance from the motoring industry to acknowledge the significance of this vehicle but now I think there is a genuine shift in focus of the large car manufacturers - efficiency has become important and it seems that most have announced an electric or electric hybrid vehicle in thier line-up. After twenty years of stagnation and limited development it seems that motoring design is moving forward again.
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Hot water isn't as easy as you think
It is well known that one of the larger users of energy in the domestic environment is hot water. It takes a lot of energy to lift the temperature of water from the incoming mains temperature to something warm enough to bath in or hot enough to be useful when washing dishes. I've previously covered some improvements to our hot water system in this post.
The existing system has deteriorated rapidly since that post was written. It began with small rust stains appearing on the outside of the tank , then an occasional trickle of water and finally a leak from the top of the tank that was large enough to result in a stream of water coming out of the tank and flowing out of the laundry door. There was so much leakage that it extinguished the pilot light and the system went cold. Living without hot water for a few days is a good reminder of how we take modern conveniences for granted. It felt like I'd begun a decent into savagery. Dishes went unwashed and started piling up in the sink. It was too cold to shower in cold water so we used washcloths dipped in kettle boiled water.
It took a few days to replace the hot water system by choice. Our previous system was gas storage meaning that it comprises of a storage tank that sits full of hot water and is maintained at that temperature by a low capacity gas burner. It rated 3 stars for efficiency. It was not, in any sensible way, compatible with a solar heating system and suffered standing losses, ie the constant loss of heat out of the tank. To reduce our consumption of gas I wanted to switch to instantaneous gas hot water. Under this sort of system hot water is heated only when required and so standing losses are eliminated. Even better, instant gas can also be used in conjunction with a solar pre-heating system to further minimise gas usage. A solar pre-heating system uses a solar collector and a storage tank to heat incoming water before it gets fed to the gas booster. That way less energy (gas) is required to bring the water up to an adequate temperature. That makes it sound like a no-brainer which it is, but there are a few complexities that make switching over more difficult.
1. 50 Degree water
Legislation in NSW requires that water delivered to the bathroom not be allowed to exceed 50 degrees. Presumably this is intended to reduce the likelyhood of people suffering burns when bathing. To comply with this requirement you must either have a heater that is limited to 50 degrees or install a tempering valve downstream of your hot water heater that automatically mixes enough cold water with your hot water to bring the temperature down to the limit value. The cheaper option is the first one - install a temperature limited heater as the tempering valves are pricey ($150) and involve additional plumbing. However, if you plan on connecting a solar pre-heat you MUST use a tempering valve because in some circumstances the solar input will heat the water to beyond 50 degrees and so even without any boosting the temperature exceeds the maximum allowable value. Conclusion - I must have a tempering valve installed.
2. 60 Degree water
There's another requirement that needs to be met to combine gas with solar. When using solar, water in a tank is gradually heated throughout the day by circulating it through the collector and back to the tank. The temperature in the tank could be anywhere from ambient to ninety degrees depending the amount of sun during the day. Somebody has decided that the fact that the temperature in the tank can vary and could potentially sit at 30-40 degrees for some time could result in leigionairre's disease finding a home in the tank. Unfortunately they also believe that 50 degree water isn't hot enough to kill those bacteria. Therefore there is a requirement to heat the water to 60 degrees before use. In a solar application you can't use a 50 degree locked water heater. Instead, you need to buy a water heater that will go to the requisite 60 degrees. These don't cost any more but according to my plumber are a fair bit less common. Of course, now that the water has been heated to 60 degrees it needs to be cooled to 50 before it can be used. The tempering valve mentioned above does this.
3. Time
Time spent without hot water is uncomfortable. It is natural to want to address the problem by installing hot water as soon as possible and the easiest way to do this is to put in another heater the same as the last one. Changing to a differnt type can involve plumbing changes, mounting changes, the installation/removal of a flue etc etc. Its no wonder that one of the barrier's to the installation of efficient hot water systems is the fact that a decision on what to use when replacing an existing heater is made under the duress of not having any hot water!
In the end, after a couple of quotes (watch out - installatin prices vary wildly!) we had an adjustable Bosch 21e (watch out - most units are locked and therfore can't be combined with solar!) unit installed in an allowable location (based on AS5601 - watch out - not all plumbers correctly interpret this document!) with a tempering valve
connected to the outlet so that when we can pull the funds together for a solar system we can add it without too much modification. Best of all, after all that work I can go and have a warm shower!
post script - I should point out that our approach to the replacement of our water heater was influenced by our inelligibility for the very generous rebates currently offered by the Australian government. Our existing gas storage system meant that we didn't qualify. If we had qualified we would have just put in a complete gas boosted solar system so to be able to claim the rebate. Our incremental installation will not be elligible for either rebates or the generation of RECs. It will, however be just as good, if not better than, those commercially available systems in minimising our impact on the environment.
The existing system has deteriorated rapidly since that post was written. It began with small rust stains appearing on the outside of the tank , then an occasional trickle of water and finally a leak from the top of the tank that was large enough to result in a stream of water coming out of the tank and flowing out of the laundry door. There was so much leakage that it extinguished the pilot light and the system went cold. Living without hot water for a few days is a good reminder of how we take modern conveniences for granted. It felt like I'd begun a decent into savagery. Dishes went unwashed and started piling up in the sink. It was too cold to shower in cold water so we used washcloths dipped in kettle boiled water.
It took a few days to replace the hot water system by choice. Our previous system was gas storage meaning that it comprises of a storage tank that sits full of hot water and is maintained at that temperature by a low capacity gas burner. It rated 3 stars for efficiency. It was not, in any sensible way, compatible with a solar heating system and suffered standing losses, ie the constant loss of heat out of the tank. To reduce our consumption of gas I wanted to switch to instantaneous gas hot water. Under this sort of system hot water is heated only when required and so standing losses are eliminated. Even better, instant gas can also be used in conjunction with a solar pre-heating system to further minimise gas usage. A solar pre-heating system uses a solar collector and a storage tank to heat incoming water before it gets fed to the gas booster. That way less energy (gas) is required to bring the water up to an adequate temperature. That makes it sound like a no-brainer which it is, but there are a few complexities that make switching over more difficult.
1. 50 Degree water
Legislation in NSW requires that water delivered to the bathroom not be allowed to exceed 50 degrees. Presumably this is intended to reduce the likelyhood of people suffering burns when bathing. To comply with this requirement you must either have a heater that is limited to 50 degrees or install a tempering valve downstream of your hot water heater that automatically mixes enough cold water with your hot water to bring the temperature down to the limit value. The cheaper option is the first one - install a temperature limited heater as the tempering valves are pricey ($150) and involve additional plumbing. However, if you plan on connecting a solar pre-heat you MUST use a tempering valve because in some circumstances the solar input will heat the water to beyond 50 degrees and so even without any boosting the temperature exceeds the maximum allowable value. Conclusion - I must have a tempering valve installed.
2. 60 Degree water
There's another requirement that needs to be met to combine gas with solar. When using solar, water in a tank is gradually heated throughout the day by circulating it through the collector and back to the tank. The temperature in the tank could be anywhere from ambient to ninety degrees depending the amount of sun during the day. Somebody has decided that the fact that the temperature in the tank can vary and could potentially sit at 30-40 degrees for some time could result in leigionairre's disease finding a home in the tank. Unfortunately they also believe that 50 degree water isn't hot enough to kill those bacteria. Therefore there is a requirement to heat the water to 60 degrees before use. In a solar application you can't use a 50 degree locked water heater. Instead, you need to buy a water heater that will go to the requisite 60 degrees. These don't cost any more but according to my plumber are a fair bit less common. Of course, now that the water has been heated to 60 degrees it needs to be cooled to 50 before it can be used. The tempering valve mentioned above does this.
3. Time
Time spent without hot water is uncomfortable. It is natural to want to address the problem by installing hot water as soon as possible and the easiest way to do this is to put in another heater the same as the last one. Changing to a differnt type can involve plumbing changes, mounting changes, the installation/removal of a flue etc etc. Its no wonder that one of the barrier's to the installation of efficient hot water systems is the fact that a decision on what to use when replacing an existing heater is made under the duress of not having any hot water!
In the end, after a couple of quotes (watch out - installatin prices vary wildly!) we had an adjustable Bosch 21e (watch out - most units are locked and therfore can't be combined with solar!) unit installed in an allowable location (based on AS5601 - watch out - not all plumbers correctly interpret this document!) with a tempering valve
connected to the outlet so that when we can pull the funds together for a solar system we can add it without too much modification. Best of all, after all that work I can go and have a warm shower!
post script - I should point out that our approach to the replacement of our water heater was influenced by our inelligibility for the very generous rebates currently offered by the Australian government. Our existing gas storage system meant that we didn't qualify. If we had qualified we would have just put in a complete gas boosted solar system so to be able to claim the rebate. Our incremental installation will not be elligible for either rebates or the generation of RECs. It will, however be just as good, if not better than, those commercially available systems in minimising our impact on the environment.
Monday, August 3, 2009
Real Renovations
With our new split cycle system in and working we can confidently pull out the old fireplace and oil heater. I started swinging the hammer and bolster a week or so ago and have continued in fits and spurts as time allows.
Almost all the dress bricks have been removed revealing the internal house brickwork. We've also removed the old oil heater and the next task is to remove the remaining protruding bricks, brick up the cavity and render the wall flat. Our house is small and we need all the space we can muster. The change should have an impact on our heating too as the current fireplace leaks cold air straight into our living space. It flows under the couch and then over your feet as you sit watching TV - not a good arrangement at all. I think the cold air is drawn in by hot air that is still escaping around the vents placed close to the ceiling. Some of the clear plastic sheets I mounted over these vents have fallen down and I have been too lazy to put them back up.
Back on the fireplace - we're contemplating doing the brickwork and rendering ourselves. Its a small area and may not be worth a tradie coming out to work on it. In addition, I presume he would have to wait a day or two for the mortar to set before applying render making it a two-trip exercise. Progress shots to follow.
Almost all the dress bricks have been removed revealing the internal house brickwork. We've also removed the old oil heater and the next task is to remove the remaining protruding bricks, brick up the cavity and render the wall flat. Our house is small and we need all the space we can muster. The change should have an impact on our heating too as the current fireplace leaks cold air straight into our living space. It flows under the couch and then over your feet as you sit watching TV - not a good arrangement at all. I think the cold air is drawn in by hot air that is still escaping around the vents placed close to the ceiling. Some of the clear plastic sheets I mounted over these vents have fallen down and I have been too lazy to put them back up.
Back on the fireplace - we're contemplating doing the brickwork and rendering ourselves. Its a small area and may not be worth a tradie coming out to work on it. In addition, I presume he would have to wait a day or two for the mortar to set before applying render making it a two-trip exercise. Progress shots to follow.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
DIY Personal Transport with TREV.
Though not directly related to the renovations of our house I'd like to promote an initiative that I think has a lot of merit. A while back UniSA designed and built a small electric commuting vehicle - TREV. The vehicle is light and efficient and represents one model for the future of transport. I love it and my first reaction was - I want one! Of course you can't buy such a car (yet) and TREV is the culmination of many, many house of design and construction that make the cost of the vehicle much higher than a modern production vehicle. My next thought was - can I build one? I'm reasonably handy but it doesn't take long to realise that the amount of engineering and design required to build such a vehicle far exceeds the time I have available to both design and then procure the parts for such a vehicle. The dream of a personal electric commuter duly went into hibernation. I was reconciled to wait until Toyota thought the concept had merit and were happy to build and sell me one (will that be any time soon?).
Then checking Autospeed recently I came across an interesting article. Apparently I wasn't the only one impressed by TREV and the publicity surrounding the car has generated correspondence from others looking to gain custody of such a vehicle. Nobody is in a position to build and sell such vehicles at the moment so a smart cookie came up with the concept of an online wiki showing the issues behind the development of TREV and giving guidance to others that may wish to build something similar. The wiki format allows people with particular interests to contribute in that area and learn from other contributors in other areas. The wiki's content will presumably grow with time and develop into something of a open-source design or at least reference guide for others to build these vehicles. The format allows those who are interested but perhaps lack the resources to build to contribute in a meaningful way to an evolving design.
I think this is a fantastic development and thank the team from UniSA and the others involved for opening up their design and sharing the hard work they have done to date. I'll be following the wiki over the next couple of months to see if the concept can be made to work and hopefully contributing something useful as time permits. Who knows - perhaps the open source model will facilitate the building of more of these vehicles and the construction of one could take place in my garage!
Here's a link to the wiki in case you missed the one in the text above: Trevipedia
All TREV images courtesy of UniSA solar cars page.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Gap Sealing
As part of the efficiency improvements currently underway at our house I have been sealing gaps around doors. Both the front and back doors of our house had gaps larger than 5mm around the perimeter. I used the basic gap sealing tapes available from Bunnings. I bought a couple of different rolls to get the right colour and thickness for each application. Whereas before I could feel cool drafts coming in around and under the doors there now appears to be a reasonably air-tight seal in most areas. The rolls of tape are quite cheap $6-$8 and it really doesn't take long to fit them. My only advice is to choose which surface to apply them to in a way that ensures the tape is under compression when sealing rather than having shearing forces applied across it as it should help ensure that the tape stays in place. Also, don't forget to give the door frames a good clean prior to applying the tape because all sorts of grit and dirt have probably built up, particularly in the gaps where there is significant airflow and this dirt will stop the tape from sticking properly.
As an added bonus the door also closes with a nice solid thunk now and doesn't rattle in the frame when closed. Bonus.
As an added bonus the door also closes with a nice solid thunk now and doesn't rattle in the frame when closed. Bonus.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
A decision on household heating !
This is a long post. There are some subjects that involve many factors and to describe them, even just in summary, takes time. I hope the description of this process will help others make a decision more quickly than we did! I’m not quite convinced we did the right thing but after much deliberation we went ahead and bought a split-cycle air conditioner/heater. While we were initially very keen on gas a few problems came up that pushed it out of contention. The reasons for our decision are listed below
Purchase Cost.
The prices we were quoted for ducted gas systems were between $6000 & $7000 Australian dollars. In comparison, a gas fireplace would have cost $5000-$6000, a pellet heater $4000-$5000 and split cycle $2300. All costs are for equipment plus installation. We also noted a big difference in the cost to install ducted gas in Sydney compared to ducted gas in Melbourne. For some reason, typical prices were about $2k more expensive in Sydney. This was hard to swallow.
Size.
For the costs outlined above, proceeding with ducted gas would get a 20kW furnace and somewhere between 5 – 8 outlets around the house. To put that in context, we are currently heating the house with a 2.4kW fan heater so every installer recommended a unit with 8 times the capacity of a heater that is almost up to the task of heating. This seemed excessive. Either there would be significant losses between the furnace and the house so that 20kW at the furnace translates to a lower figure of “delivered” heat to the house or the units would only ever operate at a fraction of their capacity. Usually this comes at the cost of efficiency though I don’t have any hard figures. On the other hard, split cycle could be sized to suit the task and we ended up with a 6.3kW unit. This is sized so that it will be able to heat the lounge and dining rooms with a little excess capacity for the other areas of the house. Being an inverter unit I’m told it can also operate efficiently at part capacity.
Difficulty.
Ducted gas was going to require the installation of ducts under the house and at least six floor registers. Choosing the location of these was going to be difficult and then get in the way of locating furniture from that point onwards. A split cycle system avoids this problem. It is located near the ceiling, out of the way and in a single location only.
Operating Cost.
I wasn’t sure which method of heating would come out cheapest so I put together some quick calculations.
Electric fan + resistive heat element (current system – nasty!)
2.4 kW heater runs 4 hrs/day = 9.6 kWhrs/day (Assume this is the baseline heat demand)
Electricity = 14c/kWhr
Cost per day = $1.34
Ducted gas
Assume gas heater system operates @ 70% efficiency (ducting losses, exhaust heat losses etc)
Assume house heating demand = 9.6 kWhrs/day
Therefore heat production = 13.7 kWhrs/day
Cost/kWhr = 1.85c/MJ = 6.6c/kWhr (ref AGL regulated prices)
Cost per day = $0.90
Split Cycle
Assume heater has COP of 3 (derated from advertised figure for heating of 3.8)
Assume house heating demand of 9.6kWhrs/day
Therefore electricity consumed to supply heat = 3.2 kWhrs
Electricity = 14c/kWhr
Cost per day = $0.44
This quick analysis seems to indicate that the split cycle system will be the cheapest to operate. Any analysis can be brought undone by dodgy assumptions though. I invite your comments as to where the dodgy assumptions in the analysis above might lay. Are there any?
Ease of Operation. Split cycle systems are operated with a remote control. You select a temperature and that’s it. Ducted gas can be just about as simple but other options like slow combustion stoves and the like take a little more effort to get up and running and set to the right temperature. This issue doesn’t really make the case for split cycle but it does score some of the other traditional options badly.
Future expansion.
Our plans for renovation include the goal of improving the passive solar capability of the house. A house that is designed to operate effectively in terms of capturing solar energy during winter and reflecting it during summer should require far less in terms of supplementary heating. The modular nature of split cycle systems makes any future expansion easy as it can be done independently of the current installation. Adding to a ducted gas system can probably be done but the bespoke nature of that work could be expensive which makes me nervous. If the passive solar renovations are effective then perhaps the heating requirement of the house can be reduced in which case the ducted gas furnace appears even more over-size!
Ambiance.
There is no question that a humming box on the wall does not have the ambiance of a crackling fireplace (or even a gas log fireplace). Ducted heating isn’t really that attractive either so there’s a tie on this one. Traditional heating methods might be more visually appealing but are penalised in each of the categories above.
Environmental Factors.
Ultimately the combustion of gas is still the consumption of a fossil fuel. A split cycle system can use renewable electricity and break the dependence on fossil fuels. This only works if we sign up for green power. We don’t do this at the moment though I think we’ll change. If we add a premium of 5c/kWhr to the cost of electricity for the split cycle system we still come in at only $0.61 per day to run the split-cycle system. Renewably powered electric heating is therefore cheaper than the fossil fuelled alternative!
Anyway - those were the factors that drove our decision. While we gave it a fair bit of thought I fully acknowledge that this decision has been made with imperfect information. We don’t have first hand experience of each of the options and we’re relying on the potentially biased information from each of those people contacted for information (typically retailers or installers). We might have it wrong but we have to proceed with the best information we’ve got. Otherwise we’ll all end up with swine flu and the whole exercise will be for naught! The installer comes on Thursday...
Purchase Cost.
The prices we were quoted for ducted gas systems were between $6000 & $7000 Australian dollars. In comparison, a gas fireplace would have cost $5000-$6000, a pellet heater $4000-$5000 and split cycle $2300. All costs are for equipment plus installation. We also noted a big difference in the cost to install ducted gas in Sydney compared to ducted gas in Melbourne. For some reason, typical prices were about $2k more expensive in Sydney. This was hard to swallow.
Size.
For the costs outlined above, proceeding with ducted gas would get a 20kW furnace and somewhere between 5 – 8 outlets around the house. To put that in context, we are currently heating the house with a 2.4kW fan heater so every installer recommended a unit with 8 times the capacity of a heater that is almost up to the task of heating. This seemed excessive. Either there would be significant losses between the furnace and the house so that 20kW at the furnace translates to a lower figure of “delivered” heat to the house or the units would only ever operate at a fraction of their capacity. Usually this comes at the cost of efficiency though I don’t have any hard figures. On the other hard, split cycle could be sized to suit the task and we ended up with a 6.3kW unit. This is sized so that it will be able to heat the lounge and dining rooms with a little excess capacity for the other areas of the house. Being an inverter unit I’m told it can also operate efficiently at part capacity.
Difficulty.
Ducted gas was going to require the installation of ducts under the house and at least six floor registers. Choosing the location of these was going to be difficult and then get in the way of locating furniture from that point onwards. A split cycle system avoids this problem. It is located near the ceiling, out of the way and in a single location only.
Operating Cost.
I wasn’t sure which method of heating would come out cheapest so I put together some quick calculations.
Electric fan + resistive heat element (current system – nasty!)
2.4 kW heater runs 4 hrs/day = 9.6 kWhrs/day (Assume this is the baseline heat demand)
Electricity = 14c/kWhr
Cost per day = $1.34
Ducted gas
Assume gas heater system operates @ 70% efficiency (ducting losses, exhaust heat losses etc)
Assume house heating demand = 9.6 kWhrs/day
Therefore heat production = 13.7 kWhrs/day
Cost/kWhr = 1.85c/MJ = 6.6c/kWhr (ref AGL regulated prices)
Cost per day = $0.90
Split Cycle
Assume heater has COP of 3 (derated from advertised figure for heating of 3.8)
Assume house heating demand of 9.6kWhrs/day
Therefore electricity consumed to supply heat = 3.2 kWhrs
Electricity = 14c/kWhr
Cost per day = $0.44
This quick analysis seems to indicate that the split cycle system will be the cheapest to operate. Any analysis can be brought undone by dodgy assumptions though. I invite your comments as to where the dodgy assumptions in the analysis above might lay. Are there any?
Ease of Operation. Split cycle systems are operated with a remote control. You select a temperature and that’s it. Ducted gas can be just about as simple but other options like slow combustion stoves and the like take a little more effort to get up and running and set to the right temperature. This issue doesn’t really make the case for split cycle but it does score some of the other traditional options badly.
Future expansion.
Our plans for renovation include the goal of improving the passive solar capability of the house. A house that is designed to operate effectively in terms of capturing solar energy during winter and reflecting it during summer should require far less in terms of supplementary heating. The modular nature of split cycle systems makes any future expansion easy as it can be done independently of the current installation. Adding to a ducted gas system can probably be done but the bespoke nature of that work could be expensive which makes me nervous. If the passive solar renovations are effective then perhaps the heating requirement of the house can be reduced in which case the ducted gas furnace appears even more over-size!
Ambiance.
There is no question that a humming box on the wall does not have the ambiance of a crackling fireplace (or even a gas log fireplace). Ducted heating isn’t really that attractive either so there’s a tie on this one. Traditional heating methods might be more visually appealing but are penalised in each of the categories above.
Environmental Factors.
Ultimately the combustion of gas is still the consumption of a fossil fuel. A split cycle system can use renewable electricity and break the dependence on fossil fuels. This only works if we sign up for green power. We don’t do this at the moment though I think we’ll change. If we add a premium of 5c/kWhr to the cost of electricity for the split cycle system we still come in at only $0.61 per day to run the split-cycle system. Renewably powered electric heating is therefore cheaper than the fossil fuelled alternative!
Anyway - those were the factors that drove our decision. While we gave it a fair bit of thought I fully acknowledge that this decision has been made with imperfect information. We don’t have first hand experience of each of the options and we’re relying on the potentially biased information from each of those people contacted for information (typically retailers or installers). We might have it wrong but we have to proceed with the best information we’ve got. Otherwise we’ll all end up with swine flu and the whole exercise will be for naught! The installer comes on Thursday...
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